DuckRyder wrote:
Once the pan is loose, you have to unbolt the oil pump and drop it into the pan. Then the pan will slide out.
No you don't. Just raise the engine high enough and the pan will come off without unbolting the pump. Maybe F100s are different but on my '72 F250, I had no problem.
Yes you do, Something must be different, because there is no way the pan's coming out on mine with the oil pump in place, not without bending the firewall, pan or pickup...
Edit: I guess I should say pump and pickup, I did pull the pickup off of the pump one time, but that was a bigger hassle than the pump.
I would sure like to see some pic's of that. As far as I know it is
not possible. The engine won't go high enough unless you bend
the snot out of the pickup tube. Maybee it was pre-bent, or
something like that. Jake
DuckRyder wrote:You can insert one from the top. sometimes you can fish the old one out trough the drain plug if you are both very patient and very lucky.
Obviously it would be best to get it out, but it really won't hurt anything, and I've seen pans with more than one in there...
edit: it isn't the "oil pump" but "oil pump drive shaft".
My old 360 had 2 drive rods in the pan. I never lift a dizzy on an old FE without a spare pump rod handy.
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I'm pretty sure you do have to remove atleast the pump pickup tube to slide the pan out. My experience is with 4x4's, but the idea is the same and the room to work with is pretty similiar, just the sumps are opposite.
I KNOW you don't have to on the 4x2 F250 with an FE because I did it, period. You can, using a hoist, jack up the engine all the way until it hits the fire wall. You do have to remove your air cleaner though. You do NOT have to unbolt the tranny from the mount or anything but you do have to remove the cooling lines. However, maybe a 4 speed is different. Maybe since mine is an automatic, I could jack it up higher.
JAKE11 wrote:I would sure like to see some pic's of that. As far as I know it is
not possible. The engine won't go high enough unless you bend
the snot out of the pickup tube. Maybee it was pre-bent, or
something like that.
That was 4 1/2 years ago. But believe me, it's possible. If I had pics, I'd show them.
when i had this happen on a 360, i had to unbolt the engine mounts from the stands, lift the engine high enough to drop the pan.
i didn't get the pan out but did get enough clearance to remove the pump and pickup seperately and then pick the rod out with a telescoping magnet.
then put rod in the oil pump and then rotated it until it went into the distributor and bolted the pump up and the pickup to it.
then the new gasket and pan went back on. it was not easy but also wasn't impossable.
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rjewkes wrote:
i didn't get the pan out but did get enough clearance to remove the pump and pickup seperately and then pick the rod out with a telescoping magnet.
I got the pan off my 72 Camper special 390 without removing the oil pump OR pick up tube!
Unless you post some pic's I'm calling BS on that. Now I could say
I pulled the pistons out of a 390 without pulling the heads. Would you
buy it? Noooooo.
Jake11 wrote:Unless you post some pic's I'm calling BS on that. Now I could say
I pulled the pistons out of a 390 without pulling the heads. Would you
buy it? Noooooo.
Call BS all you want! I did it! You all don't want to believe me, your choice. It CAN be done because I DID IT on my 72 camper special, 390/C6.
Pics? Again, that was 4 years ago, I had no digital camera handy.
However, I took some tonight of my 72 and 68 to compare. The front crossmember is different on the two. Maybe the F250's with factory disc brakes were different than the ones with drum brakes. The PO put discs on my 68 but the 72 has factory discs .
The 68s crossmember is almost 3 inches longer (front to rear) than the 72. I measured from the I beam to the end of the crossmember. That may be why I could remove the pan on the 72 without removing the oil pump or pickup tube because I have more room in front of the pan.
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If it was me i wouldn't pull the pan until you need to do a gasket or some bottom engine work. Go to a hobby shop and buy a good size magnet. Maybe you can move the pump rod to oil drain hole and fish it out or stick the magnet on the pan to hold it in place. If you have a old speaker laying around you could get a magnet off that, but needs to be good size.
There is little chance of rod causing a problem by leaving it in, the magnet will save you a big headache of pulling the pan and give you a little piece of mind.
Come on guys, no comments on the pics? I'm wondering if the changing of the cross member was a mid-'72 model year design change. If anyone has any similar pics that would be great. I think the extra 3 inches on the older models might be why the oil pan cannot be removed easily on the older models but can on the late '72 and up. There's a '73 a couple of streets up from me that looks like my '72. I wasn't going to crawl under someone else's truck to measure without there permission but I could bend down 2 feet away and see that it was like my '72.
This might be something that Keith can put into some information part of this site. I know that I myself find it odd.
a little heavy grease in the drive hole on the bottom of the dizzy would solve this whole problem when reassembling, kinda like a fuel pump pushrod on a chevy!
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After reading all of your excellent advise and guidance I decided to drop my oil pan and retrieved my Oil Pump Shaft! I just did it yesterday. This is how I did it.
I jacked up the truck's front end and rested it on the frame. I did this to get the front axle to drop down as far as possible. Oh by the way, I have a 72' F100 4X4 SWB w/360.
Unbolted the pan. I had trouble clearing the crappy hack job exhaust pipes and ended up unbolting the driver's side exhaust and pushing it rearward and out of the way.
Pan dropped down until the screened pump inlet part caught the baffle in the bottom of the pan. I was able to rotate the pan 90 degrees and withdrew the pan!
I didn't have to move the engine at all! I just jacked the truck up to let the axle fall and it gave my plenty of room to work.
I found lots of nasty dirt and an oil pump shaft in my pan.
The shaft and it's little clip were still intact. I was able to insert the shaft back in place from underneath the engine.
I put everything back in reverse order mostly. This was by far the dirtiest job I've undertaken so far. Just highlights how much cleaning I have to do on this project.
I didn't get any photos while doing the work and I will get some up for you by tomorrow.
Hope this helps or fuels the discussion.
Yours,
Sean
1942 Chevy Truck, 1.5 Ton, G503
1967 F100 352 LWB Custom Cab
1969 Bronco Wagon 302
1972 F100 360 SWB 4x4 XLT
1972 F250 360 LWB Parts Donor
1973 F250 360 LWB 4x4 Donor?
1979 F250 460 Parts Donor
Well side-o it sounds like some of the bump oil pans will come off without jacking up the moter. I have a 70 1/2 ton with a 302 and it's not possible on mine
Something must be different, because there is no way the pan's coming out on mine with the oil pump in place, not without bending the firewall, pan or pickup...
You do NOT have to unbolt the tranny from the mount or anything but you do have to remove the cooling lines. However, maybe a 4 speed is different. Maybe since mine is an automatic, I could jack it up higher. 
