Attaching Door Window Lift Channel to Glass

[FloridaFordGuy]

I'm reassembling my doors, and while doing so, one of the windows separated from the lift channel. The lift channels are in solid shape, so I'm going to order new channel rubber in the hopes of redoing them both. Does anyone know what type of adhesive I need to get to attach the rubber to the glass and the channel to the rubber? Or am I out of my mind and should just bring it to a glass shop to have them do it?

Thanks!

[390FE1972]

Here is a thread from someone that replaced his window channels, maybe some other folks that have done this will chime in.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =7&t=72800

Regards

[rhyne]

how ironic, i’m actually doing this tomorrow! i agree with the previously mentioned thread, i believe them to be pinched in place. at least i found no evidence of any type of adhesive on the 2 sets i separates today.

[FloridaFordGuy]

That's awesome! Thanks everybody!

[FloridaFordGuy]

By the way, rhyne, what is the thickness on that channel rubber? It looks like LMC Truck is out of stock, so I'm going to need to either find it somewhere else or fabricate it.

Thanks!

[rhyne]

the roll is 1.5 inches wide, 1/16 thickness. i’ll let you know if there seems to be any need for adhesive or if it seems secure as is.

[rhyne]

ok so here’s my with the channel rubber from LMC(material may differ with other distributors)...i installed as is and could pick the glass up by the channel guide itself and would pull right off...a thicker or more rubberized material may be more ideal? So working with what i had, i pinched the channels with some pliers just a bit to tighten, and used indian shellac(because it’s very tacky) on the rubber and the window, let it tack off, and installed. glue or rtv may be a better option, but it holds in place, no slippage(for now anyways)...i’m sure there’s other ways and products to use.

[Ohiotinkerer]

I cheated and took mine to the local auto glass shop.....$30 to do both the drivers glass and wing window......

[pcmdub]

I agree that a window glass shop will be much easier...but I did it myself because my brother owns the glass shop, and didn't want him touching my truck!!

The rubber and channel work on friction and tack of the rubber. When you install it, it should be difficult to get it to fully seat into the channel. I used a long woodworking clamp with the glass on a table. I added some kerosene to make it slide on and then turn crazy sticky.

Critical part is to make sure the channel is in the correct spot for the window regulator to leverage that heavy glass correctly.

[cstoyer]

Do not use the LMC Material as it is too thin and will allow the glass to pull out of the channel. Restoration specialties in Windber Pa as multiple widths and thickness of setting tape that works great. Measure the glass channel and subtract the glass thickness and divide by two. This will give you the minimum material thickness but you need to go thicker for the compression grip. They have kits but if just need the tape they sell it by the foot.

CStoyer

[cep62]

years ago they used to put oil on the on the material.
it would help it slide together then swell up to make it tight.
The new material might be different though.

[68fe360]

The problem with using oil or kerosene is, that while it works in the short term it's the reason it works that is the problem. Rubber having oil as it's base constituent, the oil and kerosene act as a solvent. Even though only enough is being used to get the job done, oil does not dry out easily. In this case it will take even longer to dry. Kerosene being a light fuel oil suffers the same issue.

The solvent will continue to break down the rubber material over time. At first it will not be fast, and appear to be a good solution. The problem actually ends up feeding it's self as the Rubber is broken down and the base oil is released from the Rubber. In effect adding additional solvent. Speeding the reduction of the rubbber. Eventualy you end up with a mushy mess, and the same problem as before.

In the summer months this process will speed up. It's almost like a reversed low temp volcanization process, without the pressure. It's the whole reason that even nickel sized drop of penatrating oil on a pavement drive way will eat up such a large area of pavement if you don't clean it up. It breaks down asphalt binder. Which is oil based.

It's best to use just enough silicone based lubed to allow for installation without making it easy to slip off. Use sparingly. While silicone is a type of oil, it is formulated to not act as a solvent on many rubber types.

Dielectric grease is a perfect one to use. You can more easily control the amount with the use of a Q-tip as an applicator. Sprays would apply far to much, and make it to slippery. You want just enough to aid install of the glass, but essentially get scraped off by the edge of the glass while it's being pushed in. Plus it doesn't flow easily as it warms up. Unless very high Temps are applied. This will help prevent any residual from getting left behind.