Provided you get mandrel, bent 2.5 will be fine.
Unbelievably there is only one exhaust shop in Atlanta that has a mandrel bender, the odds are probably better in California...
If for some reason you cannot find a shop with a mandrel bender then go with 3" compression bends...
2.5" vs 3" pipe size for high powered FE; which is better?
Moderators: Ranchero50, DuckRyder
- DuckRyder
- Moderator
- Posts: 4924
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2004 3:04 pm
- Location: Scruffy City
- Contact:
Re: 2.5" vs 3" pipe size for high powered FE; which is
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
-
- Blue Oval Fanatic
- Posts: 826
- Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 1:31 am
Re: 2.5" vs 3" pipe size for high powered FE; which is
Bigger is better. Just have to have the ability to jet the carb for less restriction. Open headers? Is that too big.
- My427stang
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 502
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 8:52 am
- Location: Omaha, NE
Re: 2.5" vs 3" pipe size for high powered FE; which is
I would just match your header collector size.
Exhaust pipe sizing has become a bit of a hot rod and internet myth.
Primary pipe sizing is a very critical dimension in the exhaust, meaning primary header tubes. Based on the size of that tube, (and cam timing) it determines the amount of negative pressure being put in the cylinder during evacuation.
That pulls additional air/fuel in during overlap. Now of course collector design has a play in it too, but once you get past the collector, it's not nearly as critical, I'd even say past about 16 inches after the collector, it doesnt mean anything
If you run a 1 3/4 primary into a 3 inch collector, run 3 inch, if it's a 3.5 inch collector, I'd run 3 inch because 3.5 would be too hard to fit in there.
If its a 2.5 collector, run 2.5, it will flow plently if mandrel bent too.
Bottom line, the exhaust pipe after the headers is nowhere near as critical as the header sizes, and those will already be worked out for you. FYI, I am not making the power you are with my 390, and I have run 3 inch, 2.25 and 2.5. This time it will have 3 inch again because I eventually plan to put the 489 out of the Mustang in it.
No difference in low end on any of the combinations over the years
Exhaust pipe sizing has become a bit of a hot rod and internet myth.
Primary pipe sizing is a very critical dimension in the exhaust, meaning primary header tubes. Based on the size of that tube, (and cam timing) it determines the amount of negative pressure being put in the cylinder during evacuation.
That pulls additional air/fuel in during overlap. Now of course collector design has a play in it too, but once you get past the collector, it's not nearly as critical, I'd even say past about 16 inches after the collector, it doesnt mean anything
If you run a 1 3/4 primary into a 3 inch collector, run 3 inch, if it's a 3.5 inch collector, I'd run 3 inch because 3.5 would be too hard to fit in there.
If its a 2.5 collector, run 2.5, it will flow plently if mandrel bent too.
Bottom line, the exhaust pipe after the headers is nowhere near as critical as the header sizes, and those will already be worked out for you. FYI, I am not making the power you are with my 390, and I have run 3 inch, 2.25 and 2.5. This time it will have 3 inch again because I eventually plan to put the 489 out of the Mustang in it.
No difference in low end on any of the combinations over the years
71 F-100 SB 4x4, 461 FE, Edelbrock Pro-flo 4, 4 speed, 4 inch softride lift, all poly bushings, integral PS, most mods installed since the 80's
70 Mustang Sportsroof 489 FE, EFI, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11s
Engine building by-appointment only--30+ years, specializing in strong street pump gas FEs
70 Mustang Sportsroof 489 FE, EFI, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11s
Engine building by-appointment only--30+ years, specializing in strong street pump gas FEs