still have massive overflow.

[FORDification]

No! Those are the bowl vents...they're absolutely necessary. The problem is that the fuel flow into the carb isn't getting shut off when it's supposed to. Just plugging the vents isn't going to stop the overflow...it'll just find another source to escape.

The problem, as stated, is simply just that the flow of fuel isn't being shut down when the fuel bowl is full. We just had an identical thread here:

http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35045

Try the things outlined in that thread and report back.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Keith,
Looked into everything mentioned after the discovery of the overflow from the float vents...

Well I forgot to firmly place the float pin retainer on the needle seat !

what is this magical float pin "retainer" ? My needle seat looks more or less like a hollow brass bolt... Could I also have a problem (missing/otherwise/etc) with a float pin retainer like Ford dude had???

Also, question for anyone available: Can flow be regulated by pinching the fuel line slightly with a pair of pliers? This sounds a little crazy but would this increase or decrease flow? I'm think of how flow is increased if you hold your finger over the end of a garden hose & I'm NOT trying to INCREASE flow!

Thanks all

[oldschoolrods]

your carb should looks something like this (yes i know the picture isnt the best angle) make sure that little retaining spring isnt keeping the float up (dont ask how i learned this lesson ) otherwise make sure the float is adjusted and that when its at the top of its adjustment the needle closes. Works just like a toilet.

don't try clamping your line off with pliers to restrict flow, (finger over the garden hose increases pressure i believe) it will restrict flow but theres no reason to do that, regular pliers can damage the fuel line, and it would be near impossible to regulate.

hope that helps.

[FORDification]

No, the flow isn't increased when you hold your finger over the hose. That is, you're not supplying any MORE water....the faucet was never touched, so there's the same amount of water being supplied to the end of the hose. You're just trying to squeeze the same amount of water through a smaller opening. However....yes, the flow will be decreased if you pinch the line, but that's not going to solve your problem. The problem will still exist, it just make take a few more seconds for it to manifest itself.

As to your other question....the hinge pin (actually named 'float shaft') is the small rod that the float hinges on. That rod slides down into two grooves, one on each side of the fuel bowl. Then there's a clip that connects the float shaft to the fuel inlet seat.



If this clip was missing or not properly attached, as the float rises in the fuel bowl, it's going to lift the needle valve off the seat too, holding it open....thus, not shutting off the flow of fuel.

Here's a large-scale schematic of the 2-barrel carb. You can see this clip (called the shaft retainer) as Basic Part No. 9599.


CLICK TO ENLARGE

[Bonnie_72_F100]

wow. due to the site upgrade i've been waiting a week to thank you for that exploded view & the addtl information! I was DEFINITELY missing the washer (part # 9569) in my carb. Which, allowed the retainer to rise/fall freely. Can I substitute a any older washer in same location?

Also, what is the assembly circled in yellow? It seems pretty important and I definitely do not have it...

Thanks all, the new FR rocks!

oldschoolrods carb1.JPG

[Jake11]

Theres something WRONG in the needle & seat. Get a new one. Install. Set the float "level". Drive away and problems
gone. Oh, does the "float" have gas in it? Take it out, shake it next to your ear. Hear sloshing? It has to actually float.
The 2V you have can be run "top off" to verify float level/leaking needle and seat. If you do that have a fire extinguisher
at hand. Good idea! Did you leave out the little gasket that goes under the brass seat? Well did ya?

Like one of the brothers said, it's like a mini toilet. It's got the same kinda bowl/float arm/valve. When it fills the float
has to float/rise and it works the valve so it seals off the incomming gas. Otherwise it pukes all over the top of your
motor and down the intake too, not good! Hope this helps ya in some way. Jake

[Bonnie_72_F100]

can we reactivate the aforementioned and below listed link? I'd like to re-confirm the spec required for the float.

http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35045

Thanks!

[Jake11]

What do want to know? I'll walk you thru it if you want. Carb's were one of my gravy sidelines as a line mechanic.
I've been inside a few thousand. (even vvc2700's) Your 2100 is dirt simple. If you don't want help, fine, no sweat. Jake

[My427stang]

Make sure you have the correct top cover gasket too. The kits come with a couple different ones and one of them keeps the float from rising to the top, you'll know it, it catches the metal part of the float, the correct one has a cut out.

[SteveC]

the thing highlighted in yellow is a vent of the fuel bowl newer 2100 carbs dont have them like that

[fomocoguy]

I noticed all the new stuff, so I'm assuming this truck sat for some time. Did you rebuild this carb before trying to get it going? If not, you should go buy a rebuild kit and a new float and properly go through it before spending any more energy trying to adjust on an old carb that probably needs gone through. That way you can rule out bad parts. It really won't cost much. Just my

[Jake11]

It's a throttle operated bowl vent. A stupid setup. It's a plain old 2100 2v. Most likely the floats full, or the needle &
seat are buggered up. Thats strine for our our terms. The PV might be out to lunch too. The 2150's had "metering rods"
just like a Carter AFB. After all those years they finally figured it out. The "H" style PV is mickey m. Cryptic, fill in the
blanks. Easy

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Thanks all. Let me catch up (sorry, work & family have been keeping me busy day & night lately)...

Jake - I do appreciate the advice! There was a specification posted @ that link that I lost during the site upgrade. If you (or anyone) knows from where/to where I should measure for a float spec and what that # should be, that would be wildly helpful!

Stang - Does one of the gaskets that comes with the new remanned carb not allow the float/needle/seat to work properly? I'll post a picture of my gasket to A. make sure it's the right one and B. make sure it's on correctly...

SteveC - Thank you! (Good to know)!

FoMoCo - it did sit for a long time (~17 yrs). The carb however is a remanned kit I ordered a few months ago. Additionally, I have a new mechanical fuel pump, new gas lines & a new gas tank.

I've tried to avoid it, but I'm going to start it top-off w/ a fire extinguisher nearby (as a few have suggested). This should allow me to see where the float is stopping (or not) and why. Additionally, I assume that I can work the needle manually to control the fuel level and keep it idling as long as I want w/o it overflowing.

Wish me luck!

[Bonnie_72_F100]

As mentioned, here's a picture of the gasket that came with the remanned carb. Is it the right one? Looks like there is an opening on it right over where the float would rise to (sound right?).

Also, I just started her w/o the top on... How strong should the flow of gas be coming out of the seat? It's was like a volcano EASILY pushing the needle out of the way and spraying everywhere. It did not, however, knock the needle OUT/OFF of the seat. I held it down with my finger and (logically) she puttered out because she wasn't getting gas.

Thanks all.

P1010041.JPG

If it looks wet on 3/4 of it, left side of picture, it's because it was just sprayed by the "top off test"!!

[fomocoguy]

As mentioned, here's a picture of the gasket that came with the remanned carb. Is it the right one? Looks like there is an opening on it right over where the float would rise to (sound right?).

Also, I just started her w/o the top on... How strong should the flow of gas be coming out of the seat? It's was like a volcano EASILY pushing the needle out of the way and spraying everywhere. It did not, however, knock the needle OUT/OFF of the seat. I held it down with my finger and (logically) she puttered out because she wasn't getting gas.

Thanks all.

P1010041.JPG

If it looks wet on 3/4 of it, left side of picture, it's because it was just sprayed by the "top off test"!!

Just for the sake of eliminating possibilities, you should put a fuel pressure gauge on it and check your pressure. I'm not surprised it shot all over, seems how you have fuel pushing through a rather small oriface and around a needle valve when coming into the carb, but I would check that next. Maybe they gave you the wrong pump. According to my Chiltons manual it should have between 4.5 and 6.5 pounds of pressure. It's going to be tricky though because you are supposed to check it with the vehicle at idle and warmed up. I suppose if you fire it up and the gauge shoots up higher than that it would be a good sign.