I have a 390 that I am going to put in my 69 and before I do I want to build it up. I want a 4 barrel intake big carb. and some head work and a cam. But I have no idea what I need to have big low end Tq. So any help would be nice.
Thanks
Kyle
390 build
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390 build
1986 F-150 300
1972 f-250 360 PS,PB
1970 F-350 360 PB
1969 f-250 390 CS,ranger, PS,PDB,AC
1968 F-350 360 PB
1968 f-250 360 PB
http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd207/truckguy_02/
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Re: 390 build
Stock cam. Put in straight up 0deg. You will get more bang for your money with dual exh. Hedders too if it's in your
budget. Start out with 10deg. timing at idle. 30deg@2500 in the distributor at the crank timing marks. You'll like
it. Jake
budget. Start out with 10deg. timing at idle. 30deg@2500 in the distributor at the crank timing marks. You'll like
it. Jake
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Re: 390 build
If you run a stock cam, don't waste your money on 4bbl and headers. If you plan on running a flat tappet cam, a Crane 343901 is a good choice for low end torque.
Side oiler FE, see if you can catch me!!!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
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Re: 390 build
I've done a bunch over the years and here is my priority for an FE
1 - headers and good duals, 2.5 inch prefered for a 390, 2.25 will work, #1 hands down
2 - have the heads ported, but not a crazy race porting. To assign number as a WAG, 90% of the gain is in the bowl and transition to seats, the ports dont need much work. Of the 90%, 75% of that power is in the exhaust side because the valve guide bosses almost block the exhaust port in a few cylinders
3 - Good 4 barrel intake. I prefer the Edelbrock RPM, even on stockers. 600 Holleys or 625 Edelbrocks on the trucks work well.
4 - Recurve the distributor to allow 12 initial, and 24 more all in by 3000
5 - Then get the cam, for a truck, something around 270 degrees advertised, 224 @ .050 with all the other changes already done.
The stock cam is fine, once you increase airflow on both sides it runs pretty well, however, if you swap it AFTER doing the airflow stuff, a cam change is a serious power adder.
The first 4 on the list will make a very strong 390, add the cam and it'll pull really hard
1 - headers and good duals, 2.5 inch prefered for a 390, 2.25 will work, #1 hands down
2 - have the heads ported, but not a crazy race porting. To assign number as a WAG, 90% of the gain is in the bowl and transition to seats, the ports dont need much work. Of the 90%, 75% of that power is in the exhaust side because the valve guide bosses almost block the exhaust port in a few cylinders
3 - Good 4 barrel intake. I prefer the Edelbrock RPM, even on stockers. 600 Holleys or 625 Edelbrocks on the trucks work well.
4 - Recurve the distributor to allow 12 initial, and 24 more all in by 3000
5 - Then get the cam, for a truck, something around 270 degrees advertised, 224 @ .050 with all the other changes already done.
The stock cam is fine, once you increase airflow on both sides it runs pretty well, however, if you swap it AFTER doing the airflow stuff, a cam change is a serious power adder.
The first 4 on the list will make a very strong 390, add the cam and it'll pull really hard
71 F-100 SB 4x4, 461 FE, Edelbrock Pro-flo 4, 4 speed, 4 inch softride lift, all poly bushings, integral PS, most mods installed since the 80's
70 Mustang Sportsroof 489 FE, EFI, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11s
Engine building by-appointment only--30+ years, specializing in strong street pump gas FEs
70 Mustang Sportsroof 489 FE, EFI, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11s
Engine building by-appointment only--30+ years, specializing in strong street pump gas FEs
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- New Member
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Re: 390 build
Thanks guys
kyle
kyle
1986 F-150 300
1972 f-250 360 PS,PB
1970 F-350 360 PB
1969 f-250 390 CS,ranger, PS,PDB,AC
1968 F-350 360 PB
1968 f-250 360 PB
http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd207/truckguy_02/